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The Napoleonic invasion of Egypt in 1798-99, and the 21-volume Description de l’Egypte produced by his 167 researchers, ignited the interest of Europeans in the whole Levant region. The antiquities collected during the expedition (including the Rosetta stone) were ceded to the British government in 1801. In that same year, Sir Edward Daniel Clarke went to Palestine to study archeology there; his student Johann Burckhardt then traveled to the region in 1812, discovering the site of Petra (and meeting Lady Hester Stanhope in Nazareth). As a result, travelers (and pilgrims), increasing numbers of whom were women, flooded these regions in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries seeking antiquities, lost cities and ruins.


 

 


 

Amelia Edwards (1831-1892)

Edwards made the popular journey up the Nile by dahabieh (or flat-bottomed boat) recording, sketching and measuring all the temples, monuments and artifacts she saw on the way. A Thousand Miles was “the first general archaeological survey of Egypt’s ruins.” (Robinson, Wayward Women) Edwards founded the first Chair in Egyptology (a science she helped to create) at University College, London.

DIGGING FOR MUMMIES. Wood engraving after a drawing by Amelia Edwards, from A Thousand Miles up the Nile (London: Longmans Green, 1877).

 


 

Frontispiece to vol. 1 of Memoirs of the Lady Stanhope (London: Henry Colburn, 1846).

Lady Hester Stanhope (1776-1839)

Hester Stanhope (niece of William Pitt) is one of the legendary lady travelers. She sported Turkish men’s dress, wore arms, and smoked a chibouk. She was the first woman to ride unveiled into Damascus and the first western woman to enter the forbidden city of Palmyra, where she claims to have been crowned “Queen of the Desert,” under the triumphal arch, by local Arabs.

 

LADY STANHOPE AT HER HOME IN DJOÛN, A FORMER MONASTERY IN THE LEBANON MOUNTAINS.

Frontispiece to vol. 2.

VIEW OF THE ARCH FROM THE WEST.

Engraving by Robert Wood from The Ruins of Palmyra, otherwise Tedmor, in the desart (London: 1753).

 


Jane Dieulafoy (1851-1916)


THE ROSE WATER MERCHANT’S WIFE.
Engraving after a photograph by Jane Dieulafoy, from La Perse, la Chaldée et la Susiane (Paris: Hachette, 1887).

Dieulafoy was only thirty when she and her husband Marcel (an engineer) made lengthy, dangerous, expeditions deep into Persia measuring, surveying and photographing sites for possible excavation. At Susa, they discovered magnificent faiences, now in the Louvre. Jane rode through Persia en cavalier, dressed as a horseman. Since nineteenth-century French law made it illegal for a woman to wear men’s clothing, she applied for, and got, “permission de travestissement.” (Hodgson, No Place for a Lady)

JANE DIEULAFOY DEFENDING HER EXPEDITIONS’ SUPPLIES DURING AN ATTACK BY BANDITS.

The original caption in Tour du Monde read: “I have fourteen balls at your disposal; go find six more friends!”

 


 

Frontispiece from vol. 1 of Isabel Burton’s Inner Life of Syria, Palestine and the Holy Land (London: Henry S. King & Co., 1875)

Isabel Burton (1831-1896)

Isabel Burton married the swashbuckling African and Eastern explorer Sir Richard Burton, and accompanied him on diplomatic postings to Brazil and Syria. Inside Syria is about their two years in Damascus, where he was British Vice-Consul in 1870-71. “A bossy pair, they were nicknamed the Emperor and Empress of Damascus.” (Blanch, Wilder Shores of Love)

The Burtons’s house in the village of Salahiyyeh, just outside of Damascus.

The first volume of Richard Burton’s unexpurgated translation of the Arabian Nights. Isabel, always uneasy with her husband’s sensual side, gained notoriety when she burned his diaries, and a translation of The Scented Garden, after his death in 1890.

Richard Burton. The Book of the Thousand Nights and a Night. Benares: Printed by the Kamashastra Society, 1885.

Richard Burton

Frontispiece from vol. 2 of Isabel Burton’s Inner Life of Syria, Palestine and the Holy Land (London: Henry S. King & Co., 1875)

 


Frontispiece to Isabella Bird’s Journey in Persia and Kurdistan (New York: G.P. Putnam’s Sons, 1891)

Isabella Bird (1831-1904)

Bird is the “archetypal Victorian Lady Traveler.” (Robinson, Wayward Women) She began to travel the world at age forty. Wearing a specially designed riding dress consisting of “full Turkish trousers” (covered by an ankle-length skirt), and holsters, she rode astride the saddle into some of the most remote and physically challenging regions of Persia, China, Tibet, Japan and Malaysia. She was the first woman to address the Royal Geographic Society in 1892 and, in the same year, one of the first women to be elected a Fellow of that Society.

Miss Bird with her camera.

A group of Armenian girls in a Bakhtiari village.

Photograph by Isabella Bird.

View of the Lenjan Valley, province of Isfahan, Iran. (The three riders are Isabella Bird, accompanied by the temporary escort of Miss Bruce and Mr. Douglas, both “of Julfa.”)

 

 wilder shores exhibit home | europe | russia | turkey | the middle east | india and the far east | africa | the americas | credits

© 2007 by the Regents of the University of California. All rights reserved.

Wilder Shores is organized geographically, loosely following the structure of Barbara Hodgson’s book No Place for a Lady: Tales of Adventurous Women Travelers. (Berkeley: Ten Speed Press, 2002). The exhibit features books and manuscripts, both by and about, women who traveled to these regions:

Europe
Russia
Turkey
The Middle East
India and the Far East
Africa 
The Americas

Credits